The Comeback Kid

I haven't been Letterboxing in a long while.  I haven't blogged for some time either - although I did apologise in advance for this.  To say that I am 'out the groove' is something of an understatement!  It was a windy day late in March last time my map and compass were used.  I cannot remember the last time that I actually plotted a route, printed out clues and donned my walking boots.

So, with studies concluded, gardening taking a back seat for a day, and the weather in my favour, I decided to make an overdue return to the Moor.  Filing through my charity walks, purchased in March, I settled on one which would make an interesting, productive day on the Moor.  The Crohns & Colitus UK Charity walk from Norsworthy Bridge up to Hingston Hill and Down Tor.  I doubted my fitness because although at work I am on my feet all day, I don't walk huge distances.  Perhaps a few diversions from the charity walk could be planned, but 3-and-a-half miles sounded fine to me!  

A few years back, I'd have thought nothing of 3-and-a-half miles.  I say a few: I walked the 27 mile OATS walk in under 7 hours over 20 years ago now!  Each of my letterbox walks since 2014 have been comfortably below 10 miles.  I'd love to believe I could recover my hill fitness.  I see it as my goal now.  To get back on Dartmoor more often, walking a bit more, and reforming a relationship with my favourite place on earth.

What happened to this bond with Dartmoor?  This place so special to me.  I've really missed it.  To me, as with many people, Dartmoor is my escape.  My antithesis to the stresses and strains of everyday life.  In the past 18 months, I've had a few of these.  A close friend advised me to simplify my life.  This wasn't easy.  My wife is expecting our first child.  Work isn't getting any easier.  If the advice meant: take control of the things I could control, then getting back on Dartmoor regularly would be how i'd interpret it.

Norsworthy Bridge car park was closed when I got there.  A fishing competition was underway at Burrator, so I parked up in the Arboretum car park.  I took a short cut through the mixed plantation to join the track near the Middleworth Farm ruins.  In typical Saturday style, the reservoir seemed alive with dog walkers, runners, cyclists.  The speeding motorcyclists on the Princetown road were audible as ever, even from this distance.  It did not take long though to leave the noise behind, as the walk took me out to Combshead Tor and Cuckoo Rock.

I found myself resting regularly and often.  I've never been one to break unnecessarily when Letterboxing.  Yet, here I was, desperate to refind my groove.  To clear my mind, and rekindle the enjoyment of being on the Moor.  I wandered off the trail up Newleycombe Lake towards Drivage Bottom.  The going underfoot was tough.  I found unexpected boxes, and explored mine workings I doubt I'd seen before.  The lush valley was remote, narrow, winding, and symbolised the experience - the Dartmoor - I sought.  At one box, a young foal, within sight of it's mother, guarded the site.  Watching me as I stamped up, it nibbled on my walking boots, moving me along.  I returned to the reservoir late in the day, tired, but partly restored after a great day of Letterboxing.  It'll take a few more walks like this to feel fully revitalised, yet I know that this will happen.  25 boxes found today, which means I've passed the 15,300 mark at long last!

I am the comeback kid!

Battle Plans: Part VII - Ceasefire?

Every year, normally in November, a formal meeting takes place of the Dartmoor Steering Group.  This collective of stakeholders discuss the military involvement within the National Park.  Participants include the National Park Authority, Natural England, English Heritage, the Duchy of Cornwall, Dartmoor Commoners Council and various parties from within the Ministry of Defence (MOD).  I have blogged regularly about their progress since the release of an Integrated Rural Management Plan (IRMP) in which the MOD indicated their approach to maintaining the ranges over a 10 year period 2010 to 2020 (available here). 

In 2010, intentions were made to - amongst many other things - limit the visual impact of the military by:

- Removing 3 flagpoles in the Okehampton Training area, with Yes Tor being a priority for removal, along with Blackdown.  Roos Tor flagpole in the Merrivale range would be removed too.

- Combining Watern Oke Flagpole with a 'look-out'.

- Relocating Walkham Spur flagpole, with a 'look-out' constructed and access works to take place on slopes near Fuges Post and Walkham Head

- Relocating 9 flagpoles including Fordsland Ledge, Steeperton Tor, Kitty Tor and Great Mis.

- Replacing the existing hut at Holming Beam, which (in 2010) was deemed to be shortly nearing the end of it's extended useful life, and considered by many as an eyesore.

A very ambitious action plan, which would almost all have been completed by now, if the original budgets and timescales were accurate and to be believed.  Several objectives have been completed, such as renegotiating consent for the Cramber Tor Training Area, and making repairs to the West Mill Tor/Target Railway track for general vehicle access.

However, it has been the visual intrusion elements that have caused emotions to run high at Steering Group meetings since.  A major sticking point has been the Military Byelaws.  These legally binding agreements affect the boundaries of the ranges, and the locations of established MOD infrastructure within them.  Only a change in the byelaws can result in the removal or relocation of flagpoles or look-outs (huts).  Okehampton byelaws date from 1980.  A byelaw amendment last took place in the Merrivale range in 1995, following an accident that left a girl seriously injured by an unexploded device.  This amendment led to Great Mis Tor and Roos Tor summits being removed from the range, and an incident that resulted. partly, to the notices on all Range Poles and the outlawing of Dartmoor Letterboxes placed in ammo cans.

Visual intrusion is a subject the National Park Authority take very seriously.  In my last blog post, the plantations that interrupt wild skylines are being tackled by the Forestry Commision.  The DNPA planning department are also very strict on wind turbines and development design.

It was with these concerns most prominent that last November's meeting took place at Parke.  Following contact with the DNPA, the minutes for November 2015's Steering Group meeting have finally been uploaded to their website (here).  Here it was confirmed by the Defence Infrastructure Organisation (DIO) that the Dartmoor ranges had recently been considered as 'safe', and due to the small review team and limited Government budgets, any byelaw review was at least a decade away. No flagpoles would move prior to that.  Military byelaws are being reviewed nationwide, but have been prioritised to address areas of safety or security concern first ie: nuclear establishments.  Similarly, all previous work by the DNPA and Duchy of Cornwall to redesign and replace Holming Beam hut was superfluous since their was no longer any MOD budget available to carry out this work.

The Steering Group also learnt that the Ten Tors - an iconic Dartmoor event - would be supported by the MOD for as long as possible. Yet the military would not be committed to sustaining Ten Tors indefinitely, again, due to budgets.  The meeting must have been an uncomfortable reality check.  The group took time to reflect on it's membership, and the declining numbers of stakeholders present in working parties.  The group vowed to encourage participation at forthcoming gatherings.  The next Steering Group meeting is on November 16th 2016.  I'll wait to see who reports back first - the DNPA or MOD.  We all wait to see how this working relationship develops in the future.

A new plan for Dartmoor's forests

April Fools Day was the last of the 28 day consultation period for Dartmoor's new Forest Plan.  'The what?', you may ask.  The Forestry Commission are defining their long term vision for Dartmoor's forests including Bellever, Fernworthy, Soussons and Brimpts.  These four plantations account for about 1.5% of the total National Park area.  Their plan sets out how the woods will be managed for the next decade or so.


Felling, thinning, restocking, species composition, protection of artifacts, public access and recreation, are all covered by the forest plan.  So what have the Forestry Commission (FC) got in store?

Their proposals seek to maintain the Public Forest Estate in line with current forestry policy... blah blah blah... Yawn.

The two key changes that I noted from the Plan are:

1. Up to 10% of the FC's wooded area to become permanent open space through forest clearance. These cleared patches include the high profile Fernworthy forest skyline distantly visible from Postbridge, the plantation on Bellever Tor's Eastern slope, plus Soussons' Southern, roadside edge. Where these trees exist now, moor will eventually take over.  More space for Letterboxing, and less visual impact on the landscape.  Unless you like the dark green walls wrapping over the horizon.

2. Implementation of proposals will "soften and better integrate the woodland with the surrounding landscape".  Proposals such as making a feathered edge to the forests, minimising the contrast between high forest and open moor.  This graded edge will be made up of clusters of trees, regenerating forest and open space.  This will surely affect many Letterbox bearings on forest edges.

It is a long term plan, but we look forward to seeing how this impacts the forests, the Moor and Letterboxing.  As I stated above, consultation closes on April 1st, but more information is available at: https://englandconsult.forestry.gov.uk/forest-districts/dartmoor-forest-plan/consultation/subpage.2014-10-24.2652189016/view

This is not an April Fools.

Betwixtmas

Betwixtmas : The period of time between Christmas and New Year

This Winter has been poor so far, hasn't it?  If this is what 'climate change' has in store for Great Britain's bleakest months from now on, it is high time someone should arrange a mid season break for the hobby.  In spite of my extra curricular activity, I have been aching to venture out on the Moors again.  Yet, I have found just one single day in the last 3 months that suits both my plans and those of Mother Nature.  It was before the current snow fall, and after the rains stopped.  It was obvious when I arrived that I was in the eye of a storm, or that I was interrupting something.

Tis the season, although it seems ages ago, for Christmas walks!  There were many word-of-mouth letterbox series sited for this year, but I was as yet to search for any.  I intended to make the most of my day and seek out 3 such sets. The first stop was at the village of Belstone.  A short trek down the ridge to Taw Marsh, and returning along the river.  An overtopping river that bubbled and boiled with the previous nights downpour alive between (or betwixt) its banks.

The early light, the rain and the washed atmosphere made for dramatic images, across a valley that never fails to impress.  I couldn't hang around though, and I splashed my way back to the car, having located 5 letterboxes, and headed to Bellever.

The owners of a series of letterboxes on Riddon Ridge actively advised wellington boots to complete their walk.  I anxiously considered their words as I pulled on my trusty waterproof socks overlooking the angry East Dart.  Fortunately, there were no river crossings to negotiate, and my feet stayed dry on this entertaining stroll over the ridge to Snaily House and back.  In the shelter from the Westerly wind here, the day was turning out quite pleasant.  The crowds were absent today, and judging by visitors books, they had been absent for most of Christmas too.

I had one final set to find, although the sun had already set behind a large bank of cloud that engulfed Princetown.  Four Christmas boxes to seek around Wind Tor.  From up here, I couldn't quite see the rushing River Webburn in spate, but I suspected it was down there in the valley washing Widecombe clean. I found these Christmas stamps easily enough, and so I returned to the car to reflect on my day of Dartmoor.  

Despite the cruel weather (and other, perhaps more human factors) dampening spirits in Northern England and Scotland this Christmas, I was personally pleased to see Letterboxing, Dartmoor and Devon have shook off the worst of the storms, and carried on.  

Lets hope I can return before the Spring!

Summer reflections

The first snow of Autumn fell on Dartmoor today.  Snow has fallen in 7 of the last 11 Novembers. Perhaps the month should be renamed 'Snovember'.  The dusting of the white stuff has made me reflect on the Summer of 2015, when my relationship, and perhaps many people's relationship with Dartmoor and Letterboxing seems to have changed.

The last walk I recall completing was around Eylesbarrow.  Finding several letterboxes on the slopes of the hill, and in the valley near the bronze age Drizzlecombe menhir.  Taking some time to explore the ruins and remnants of the old tin mine which closed in the 1850s - roughly when James Perrott established his Cranmere Pool letterbox.  Human impact on the moor is long lasting.  Even when the memories fade, the legacy remains.  Set in stone.  A monument to past glory.  Bronze age Britons vanish.  Tin mines are exhausted of their ore and the miners leave.  The landscape they leave behind has changed irretrievably.

The confirmation of my Homebase Garden Academy status this Summer was fantastic for me professionally and personally.  A career change into the Great Outdoors was always my ambition.  An ambition that can be traced back to the Summer of 1991, when I made a connection with the Dartmoor environment - introduced to me through Letterboxing.

In the 25 years that followed, the Letterboxing landscape has also changed, almost beyond recognition.  I have spoken before of the developments that have occurred.  Those since the Millenium have altered the hobby greatly, such as GPS and the boom in Geocaching.  This year, more than any I can recall, has seen the largest number of Letterboxers actively retire from the hobby.  Various reasons may account for this.  The end of an era seems an over-the-top way to describe it, but the class of 1985 have finally chosen to hang up their compass for the last time in greater numbers than ever.  The landscape they leave has changed.  The resulting hobby must face some challenges ahead.  I relish a challenge though!  Whilst I grapple with my growing gardening career, please forgive my long silences on this blog as I walk less and blog even more rarely.  I still care very much for Dartmoor, and love Dartmoor Letterboxing.  Don't forget you can see what I'm doing in the 12 month academy on my other blog though.  Appropriately named perhaps: What goes down, must come up!

Access all areas

Despite the gloomy weather forecast, I found myself on Dartmoor on Saturday afternoon, packed and ready for a letterbox walk around Windy Post and Pew Tor.  I haven't walked these parts in many years.  A new set of letterboxes has been sited here, and my time away had generated a long list of clues to search for.  I parked in the car park just below Little Staple Tor, aiming directly for Feather Tor and the peaks beyond.  

The going underfoot was far tougher than I remember.  The grass and gorse were very deep in places and the lack of grazing livestock is clearly having an effect on the landscape.  On the southern side of Barn Hill, Spring's swaling, still very obvious, successfully cleared the undergrowth.  The wide pathways through the gorse were eroded and muddy, in an area which receives more than it's fair share of walkers.  It made me think about access to the moor, after all - to my East - remained Dartmoor's most sensitive, well-known and long running issues - Vixen Tor.

As I feared in my post (Vixen Tor and other restrictions) in January 2011, spray painted rocks surround the area.  That Vixen Tor has always been enclosed is not disputed, but the removal of a stile over the enclosure wall in 2003 sparked protest and trespassing until the courts ruled in landowner Mary Alford's favour in September 2011.  Based on my observations, displaced rocks from the wall, clear footprints inside the enclosure towards the rockpile, and damage to the barbed wire fence and fenceposts indicate that the public continue to access the land where the stile once stood.

Some 30 years ago, at least one Letterbox existed beyond this wall:  Named 'Vixana's Lair', in honour of the enduring legend of Vixana the witch, who, it is said, lived on this high Tor.  She used her powers to conjure up a mist when anyone came close. Disorientated and lost in the fog, they would inadvertently wander into the nearby mire.  Legend has it that Vixana was defeated by a local man with the assistance of a 'magic ring' enabling him to see through the mist, creeping up on her and pushing the unsuspecting witch to her death from the summit.

Partly in reverence to the story (and partly as the Letterbox no longer exists) I did not cross the wall.  My walk took me around Heckwood Tor and towards Pew Tor Cottage.  It was great to meet Caroline and Ian Kirkpatrick near one Letterbox.  The Kirkpatricks have long been great promoters of the off-Dartmoor letterboxes to which I have referred to this year.

I found 9 Letterboxes in all, and though some of those on my list were missing, I was satisfied with the afternoon's walk.

Away day

Back in March I said I hoped to return to Bodmin Moor after a day's (successful) letterboxing around Cornwall highest peak, Brown Willy.  A while ago, the opportunity arose to check out the area again, this time in the company of a regular visitor.  A seasoned geocaching and letterboxing pro in the form of Steve B.  Steve lives just off the moor, and often walks these paths.  With prepared lists, plenty of local tales, and knowledge of hidden letterboxes, this day was sure to exceed March's Bodmin Moor letterbox haul of 1!

Parking up in light mist at the village of Minions, it was a surreal start to what would be a great day's letterboxing.  I'd never been to this 'Warner branded' settlement before, and I haven't letterboxed with anyone in years.  First stop was Tregarrick Tor.  I was quickly reminded of how much this place has in common with Dartmoor - bogs and streams to cross on our path.  Steve pointed out the Poldark filming location.  The track to Tregarrick played the role of "Road to Illogan" in series 1, which made me chuckle.  After success at Tregarrick Tor, we headed to the Cheesewring, which is a popular tourist attraction round these parts.  A natural rock stack that defies logic, gravity and belief atop a giant quarry.  I was in my element.  The weather was beautiful, the pace of the walk was perfect, and the Letterboxes kept coming!  We turned North towards consecutive ridges of mysterious rugged tors.  At lunch on what I learnt was the appropriately named Sharp Tor, I was introduced to Bearah Tor and Kilmar Tor and the infamous High Rock.  Letterboxes on all of them, I was told.

The afternoon was spent confirming this was true.  Bearah Tor was breathtaking in it's scale.  An elongated series of outcrops stretching almost a kilometre.  As I observed at Rough Tor in March, the landscape appeared immaculate, as if undisturbed for centuries.  I mean that on the macro scale, not just in the geological sense.  Granite had weathered, crumbled, and lay untouched in small caves. Erosion, apart from in the peat near water sources, and near gateways wasn't obvious.  Ferns, grasses, and other upland plants grew tall between boulders.  The absence of feet - human and animal - and hands (Letterboxers) was staggeringly clear.

Approaching Kilmar Tor, the legacy of the Cornish quarrying industry came into focus.  Steve pointed out perhaps the last active quarry in the region high on Bearah Tor, and then the old railway line.  I had one landmark in sight though: High Rock.  From below, it didn't look that high, but on closer inspection, this was at least as impressive as the Cheesewring.  A teetering, balanced, natural wonder on the very apex of the ridge.  That I may find a letterbox upon it's summit was the only incentive I needed!

Kilmar Tor itself is another knife edge ridge of rough granite and even rougher vegetation, with a trig point hidden among it's outcrops.  At this point, Steve and I decided to call it a day.  We walked 15 miles, and found 19 Letterboxes.  I was once again bowled over by this diminutive Moor, and am already planning my next adventure.

Cheers Steve!